What to do in Paris' 20th arrondissement ?

The 20th arrondissement of Paris is one of the best places to experience a more local side of the capital. Its sloping streets, village-like corners, street art, parks and independent cultural venues feel very different from the grand boulevards of central Paris.

If you would like to combine exploring the city with French classes in Paris, the 20th is also an excellent place to practise everyday French in cafés, bookshops and neighbourhood markets.

This guide covers the best things to see and do in the Paris 20th arrondissement, including Père-Lachaise Cemetery, Belleville, Ménilmontant, La Campagne à Paris and several places to eat, shop and go out.

The 20th arrondissement lies in eastern Paris and includes the neighbourhoods of Belleville, Ménilmontant, Père-Lachaise, Gambetta, Saint-Fargeau and Charonne. It is residential, multicultural and creative, with a strong working-class history and a lively contemporary arts scene.

Visitors come here for several different reasons. Some want to see the famous graves at Père-Lachaise. Others are looking for panoramic views, colourful street art, intimate concert venues or peaceful streets that feel far removed from the busiest tourist districts.

The area is particularly rewarding if you enjoy walking. Be prepared for hills, stairs and cobbled streets, especially around Belleville and Ménilmontant. Comfortable shoes will make the visit much more enjoyable.

You do not need to cover the whole arrondissement in one visit. Choose two or three adjoining areas and allow time to wander rather than rushing from one landmark to another.

“The countryside in Paris” is the name of this small island of pavilions perched on top of a hill near the Porte de Bagnolet. A unique place in Paris.

Everything contributes to giving this area an atmosphere that you will not find anywhere else in the capital. First of all, its immutable silence, a rare luxury in Paris, which adds a delicious solemnity to the beauty of the place. You will also find charming pavilions which present both a unity of construction and a personality of their own. While some pavilions have pretty canopies, you will see others with small gardens overflowing with wisteria and roses. Some facades stand out with bright and original colors. The pavilions were built at the beginning of the 20th century for the working population. It was intended to improve their living conditions and facilitate their access to property.

Père-Lachaise is the best-known attraction in the 20th arrondissement and one of the most famous cemeteries in the world. Its tree-lined paths, sculptures and elaborate tombs make it feel like an open-air museum.

Many visitors look for the graves of Oscar Wilde, Jim Morrison, Édith Piaf, Marcel Proust, Colette and Frédéric Chopin. However, some of the most memorable parts of a visit are the quieter paths, lesser-known memorials and changing light beneath the trees.

Entry is free. Download or photograph a map before walking around, as the cemetery is large and its paths can be confusing. Opening hours vary during the year, so check the official information before your visit.

If you enjoy cultural places beyond the usual tourist circuit, you may also like my guide to Parisian museums off the beaten path.

At the heart of Belleville Hill, Le Parc de Belleville offers one of the most beautiful views of Paris. Unlike the other large Parisian parks created during the Haussmannian works, le Parc de Belleville is a modern construction (from 1988).

Until the 19th century the parc hosted many vineyards. Now the terraced gardens offer different floral settings and even a waterfall that ends below in a water garden.

(photo © un jour de plus à Paris).

Between rue de Ménilmontant and rue des Couronnes, La petite ceinture offers a space of 5,000 m² framed by 2 tunnels. A large wooden dock with a few seats was built to relax. Below, a path is accessible to people with reduced mobility. Strollers runs along the old railway line, which was used to transport passengers until 1934.

The Pavillon Carré de Baudouin is a contemporary cultural centre at 121 rue de Ménilmontant. The eighteenth-century building became a public arts venue in 2007 and now hosts free exhibitions, talks and cultural events.

The programme often includes photography and urban art. There is also an outdoor art wall and a garden, making it a convenient stop while exploring Ménilmontant.

Check the current programme and opening times before visiting, particularly between exhibitions.

In Paris’ 20^th arrondissement, magnificent or strange works of art are displayed without complex, around many streets. Urban art has long been part of the DNA of the French capital. To discover street art, you have to go up rue de Ménilmontant. In particular, you will discover an emblematic fresco, produced by Jérôme Mesnager. And further up the same street, you can admire recent works on the facade of the Pavillon Carré de Baudoin. Finally, you can take a walk in the famous rue Denoyez, des Maronites, rue de la Forge, rue de Belleville and Place Frehel. In all of these passages, you can admire magnificent frescoes, which are really worth a look!

For another quieter side of Paris 20, walk through the Saint-Blaise neighbourhood and around the historic Église Saint-Germain de Charonne. The church and its small cemetery create a village-like scene that feels unusual within modern Paris.

Rue Saint-Blaise has cafés and local shops, while the surrounding streets mix old houses with more recent architecture. This part of the arrondissement can be combined with La Campagne à Paris or a walk near Porte de Bagnolet.

Les Canailles Ménilmontant

15 rue des Panoyaux, 75020 Paris

Les Canailles Ménilmontant is a traditional neighbourhood bistro serving classic French dishes. It is a good option if you are looking for a sit-down meal away from the busiest central districts. Check the current opening days and reserve when possible.

Floreal Belleville

43 Rue des Couronnes, 75020 Paris

Associative place of life, between café, bar, exhibitions and meetings. Floreal Belleville promotes young creation and emerging artists. With a sparkling turquoise Art Nouveau facade, and vintage touches, it’s a perfect Frenchie cozy place

l’Entracte Bistrot

 21 Rue Malte Brun, 75020 Paris

As a couple or with friends, a stop at l’Entracte bistrot is a must when passing through the Père Lachaise district. The decor is neat, the plates are comforting, and the wines well selected by the owner. It’s a very good neighbourhood restaurant with well presented dishes.

Eating Around Belleville

For greater choice, walk along rue de Belleville and the nearby side streets. The neighbourhood reflects the area’s multicultural history, so it is a good place to try Chinese, Vietnamese, Tunisian or contemporary French food.

Restaurants and opening hours change regularly. Check the current menu before making a special journey. To feel more confident ordering, review these useful French phrases at a restaurant before you go.

Le Monte-en-l’Air

2 Rue de la Mare, 75020 Paris

Before becoming a bookseller at Le Monte-en-l’Air librairie, Guillaume Dumora worked at “L’Association”, a house that publishes comics and graphic novels. But he was also an outfielder in a street performance company. This sums up quite well his capacity for flexibility and adaptation necessary for the bookstore profession.

A Tout Lire

141 Avenue Gambetta, 75020 Paris

Located between Pelleport and Saint-Fargeau, A tout lire bookstore offers a very large choice of books and works. You will find thousands of references, from the literary production both new and classic, to paperback and art books.

Vintage 77

77 Rue de Ménilmontant, 75020 Paris

Very nice store with branded vintage pieces but also new collections. A large choice of fashion clothes, accessories, glasses, bags, jewellery, gloves, hats, shoes.

Markets and Small Shops

The pleasure of shopping in the 20th arrondissement often comes from browsing rather than visiting one famous address. Look for neighbourhood food shops, bakeries, second-hand stores and small creative businesses around Gambetta, Ménilmontant and Belleville.

If you are practising French, local shops offer an excellent opportunity to use some of the useful phrases you need for shopping in France: ask whether an item is available, request a recommendation or check the price before buying.

Aux Folies

8 rue de Belleville 75020 PARIS

Victim of its success, it’s always busy! Great little bar to go for a coffee or for drinks in the evening, reasonably priced. Waiters are very attentive and friendly. With a nice atmosphere and a great seating outside, it’s worth a visit.. if you can find a table.

Mama Shelter

109 rue de Bagnolet 75020 PARIS

In the historic Saint Blaise neighbourhood, Mama Shelter welcomes you with a stylish interior. You can take a break on sunny days on the beautiful rooftop and enjoy a meal or sip on a drink while you let your eyes wander over a panoramic view of the city. It’s also a hotel with rooms that are not too big but very functional and modern.

La Maroquinerie

23 rue Boyer 75020 PARIS

Located on an easy walk from the Gambetta metro stop, La Maroquinerie is a small venue with a pleasant outdoor courtyard dining café. The stage area in the basement is small and intimate (with a capacity of 200 approx). With food served late and a friendly staff, it’s a little musical goldmine.

La Bellevilloise

19-21 rue Boyer 75020 PARIS

Bar, restaurant, club, and exhibition space, La Bellevilloise was once housed Paris’ first workers’ co-operative. Film and music festivals take place on the top level, while downstairs, the club and concert venue feature new bands and an ’80s night.

Here is a practical route for a first visit:

• Morning: Start at Père-Lachaise Cemetery and allow at least ninety minutes for a relaxed walk.
• Lunch: Eat near Ménilmontant or around rue des Panoyaux.
• Early afternoon: Visit the Pavillon Carré de Baudouin and browse Le Monte-en-l’Air.
• Late afternoon: Follow rue de Ménilmontant towards Belleville, looking for street art along the way.
• Sunset: Finish at the upper terrace of Parc de Belleville for the view across Paris.
• Evening: Check the programme at La Maroquinerie or La Bellevilloise, or have a drink around Belleville.

This route includes hills and a considerable amount of walking. If you prefer a slower day, remove Père-Lachaise or save Belleville for a second visit.

How to Get There

Useful metro lines include:

• Line 2: Belleville, Couronnes, Ménilmontant, Père Lachaise and Philippe Auguste
• Line 3: Père Lachaise, Gambetta and Porte de Bagnolet
• Line 3bis: Gambetta, Pelleport and Saint-Fargeau
• Line 11: Belleville and Pyrénées

The postcode 75020 Paris covers the arrondissement. Because the area is large, choose your first metro station according to the places you plan to visit.

When to Visit

Spring and early autumn are particularly pleasant for long walks. Summer evenings work well for terraces and outdoor views, while autumn brings beautiful colours to Père-Lachaise.

Some gardens, cultural venues and cemetery gates close earlier in winter. Check official opening times on the day of your visit.

Accessibility and Comfort

Parts of Belleville and Ménilmontant are steep, and several picturesque streets include steps or uneven paving. Visitors with limited mobility should plan shorter sections and check accessible entrances in advance.

Wear comfortable shoes, carry water in warm weather and leave time for unplanned stops. The character of the 20th arrondissement is best appreciated slowly.